The framers are done, the trusses are set and the sheathing is getting rained on while the schedule slips. Metal Roofing in Bucks connects Mapleton builders and homeowners with independent local roofers who handle Roof Installation on new framing, additions, garages and sunrooms. Call once and get routed to a licensed and insured contractor who can plan dry-in around your framing and inspection dates.
There is nothing to tear off on a new build, but there is a lot more to coordinate. The sheathing has to pass a nailing inspection in many jurisdictions before anything covers it, the windows and siding crews are waiting on a dry box, and the electrician wants the attic closed in. When dry-in drags, exposed OSB swells at the seams and those edges can telegraph through finished shingles.
Additions bring a different headache. The new roof has to meet an old one, and the seam where they meet is where most addition leaks start. A garage roof that dies into a second-story wall needs step flashing woven behind the siding, a kickout flashing at the bottom and sometimes a cricket. A sunroom with a shallow pitch may not even qualify for shingles.
Expect the local roofer to ask about the plans, the pitch and the framer's timeline before giving a number. Roof Installation done right starts with the material matching the slope, the underlayment matched to the climate and a tie-in plan for any existing roof. Done that way, the roof goes on once, matches the manufacturer's install specs and gets registered correctly from the start.
On new construction the roofer is one trade among many, so timing and specs matter as much as workmanship.
Most general contractors and construction lenders want a certificate of insurance on file before the roofer starts. The contractors we route you to are licensed and insured independent businesses. Request the certificate, confirm the license with your local office and check who is listed on the roofing permit or if it rides on the building permit.
Open sheathing is a countdown. Once you are on the line, the dispatcher connects you with a nearby contractor who does new-construction work, often for a site visit within days, depending on contractor availability. If the trusses are already set and weather is coming, the dispatcher will flag it so a quick underlayment dry-in can be discussed.
Expect a quote built from the roof plan, listing squares, pitch, valleys, underlayment, ice barrier, drip edge, starter, vents and penetrations. For additions, the tie-in is priced as its own line, since it includes cutting back and reworking part of the existing roof.
New-construction roofers bring roof jacks and planks for steep pitches, fall-protection anchors nailed into fresh trusses, coil nailers set for the shingle maker's nailing zone and a material lift or boom delivery to land bundles on the roof. Tie-in work adds flat bars, hook blades and tin snips for opening the old roof without tearing up good shingles.
These are the install details worth asking any contractor about before work starts.
Before underlayment goes on, the roofer should check the deck the framers left. Panels should be staggered, gapped about an eighth of an inch for expansion, supported with H-clips between trusses where required and nailed on the schedule the inspector expects. Missed nails and blowouts at the truss tops get fixed now, not after the shingles are down.
Asphalt shingles need at least a 2:12 pitch, and anything from 2:12 to 4:12 calls for doubled underlayment. Below 2:12, the roofer will usually point you toward a membrane such as modified bitumen or TPO, or a metal system rated for low slope. Getting this wrong on a porch or sunroom roof is a common source of slow leaks.
A proper tie-in means peeling back the old courses, lapping new underlayment beneath them and sealing the seam with ice barrier. Where the new roof meets a wall, step flashing goes in course by course with a kickout at the bottom. Matching shingle color on an older roof is rarely perfect, so ask to see samples.
Drip edge goes under the underlayment at the eaves and over it at the rakes. A factory starter strip with its sealant line along the eave keeps the first course from lifting, and running starter up the rakes helps in wind. These are small parts, but missing them is something the shingle maker can point to later.
Open metal, closed-cut and woven valleys are the three main options, and the manufacturer instructions say which ones they accept. Closed-cut is the most common look on new homes. Open metal valleys move the most water and suit roofs where a big upper slope dumps into a smaller one. Woven valleys do not work with many thick laminated shingles.
On a new roof, skylights should sit on curbs or factory flashing kits, set before the shingles go around them. Plumbing vents, bath fan hoods and the furnace flue all need boots or flashing that match the pitch. The roofer should coordinate with the plumber and HVAC crew so nobody cuts a fresh hole through a finished roof.
This is the normal path from your call to a dried-in, finished Roof Installation.
Tell the dispatcher whether it is a new home, an addition, a garage or a sunroom, plus the pitch if you know it and where framing stands. That routes the call to a contractor who works new builds and tie-ins.
A local roofer will either walk the framed structure or review the roof plan, often within a few days depending on availability. They look at truss layout, sheathing, wall intersections and where the new roof meets the old.
The written quote lists squares, pitch, underlayment, edge metal, valleys, penetrations and tie-in work separately. The roofer also gives a target dry-in date that fits the sheathing inspection.
Once the roof is on, review the flashing at walls and tie-ins, confirm the inspection sign-off and ask for the shingle registration paperwork. The contractor explains their workmanship terms and the manufacturer's coverage in writing.
These composite examples show what new-construction and addition calls tend to look like.
A builder had a custom home framed and sheathed, but the original roofer backed out a week before dry-in. With storms in the forecast, the whole build was stuck waiting on the roof. The independent contractor routed through the line got synthetic underlayment and drip edge down within days, then came back to shingle after the sheathing inspection passed.
A homeowner added an attached garage, and water kept showing up on the drywall where the garage roof met the two-story wall. The routed contractor pulled back the siding and found continuous L-flashing instead of step flashing, with no kickout at the bottom. The fix was individual step flashing, a kickout and a reinstalled siding course.
A sunroom addition had been framed at about a 1.5:12 pitch, and the plans called for shingles to match the house. The contractor explained that asphalt shingles are not rated below 2:12 and suggested a modified bitumen cap sheet in a matching color. The homeowner chose the membrane, and the roof has stayed dry where shingles would likely have failed.
These are composite examples of the kinds of calls we route, written to show how the process works. They are not individual customer reviews.
Usually right after the sheathing is nailed off and, where required, has passed its framing or nailing inspection. The sooner underlayment goes on after that, the better, because rain swells OSB edges. Many builders book the roofer when trusses are ordered so dry-in follows sheathing by a few days.
A good tie-in removes several courses of old shingles so the new layers can lap underneath. Ice barrier runs across the joint, and walls get individual step flashing plus a kickout. A cricket may be needed where a roof dies into a wall. Ask the contractor to sketch the tie-in plan before work starts.
Most asphalt shingles are rated for 2:12 and steeper, and from 2:12 to 4:12 the underlayment has to be doubled. Below 2:12, plan on a low-slope membrane like modified bitumen or TPO, or a metal panel rated for that slope. Check the pitch before framing if you can, since raising it later is costly.
Yes. Each manufacturer publishes install instructions covering nailing zone, nail count, underlayment, starter, ventilation and approved valley methods. Many also offer extended coverage only when their matching accessory components are used. Ask the contractor which product line they install and whether they will handle the registration paperwork.
That is part of the job on new construction. Tell the dispatcher your builder's timeline so you are routed to a contractor who does new-build work. The roofer will need the sheathing done, a clear path for material delivery and coordination with the plumber and HVAC crew for vent and flue openings.
An exact color match is hard when the house roof is older, since shingles fade and lots vary. The contractor can bring samples and a bundle label from the existing roof, if you still have one, to get close. Some owners plan to re-roof the whole house within a few years and accept a slight mismatch until then.
Metal Roofing in Bucks takes calls 24/7 and routes builders, remodelers and homeowners around Mapleton to independent roofers who do first-time installs. Who can take the job and when comes down to local contractor schedules, and you will hear that plainly on the call.
The calls range from full new homes to a single bump-out, garage or covered porch. If you are a builder with several lots, call about each one so timing can be planned around your framing schedule.
One call connects you with a local independent contractor who can walk the framing, plan the tie-in and set a dry-in date.
